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For the customizer in all of us~ Part 2: Elbow Greasin'
Puppy Love
It's part 2 of my CF set assembly... and boy- the skin on my fingers feel blistery. *sigh* Next time, I'm using gloves.

Please note: This entry has been updated on 02.13.06 w/ photos and better explainations of the process~

Some may be wondering what tools I used to clean up the seams and sprues - I'll show first what I used and then how I used them:

+ Dremel (optional)
+ Various craft files (metal works best!)
+ Various grades of waterproof sandpaper (200-1500)
+ Flex-i-files (optional)
+ Pair of good craft wire clippers
+ Razors (primarily for the holder edge - doubles up as a seam shaver)
+ Container of water (for the sandpaper and quick washing off of the resin dust)
+ Paper towels
+ Face mask/respirator (This stuff is RESIN and resin dust is not good for your health)
+ Goggles & gloves

There are various ways to go about doing all this stuff.. and truthfully, I work as I feel most comfortable. I highly suggest working in a well-lit, well-ventilated area too. Latex-type gloves are optional, but your fingers may thank you for it later... water blisters are *not* fun.

Step 1:

Clipping of the sprues

Upon starting, I clipped off the excess sprues of each of the parts. Some parts may be easier than others. Think of it like clipping your toenails - clip little by little and leave a little space for filing~

Step 2:


Ready a container of water with slices of various grades of waterproof sandpaper to wet-sand your parts. The dremel is optional. If you have used power tools before/have them readily available, they might save you some time. However, if you haven't done this before, using coarse wet-sandpaper (200 grade or so) will do the same job with better control - just requires more elbow grease. ^_^
Be careful not to sand down *too* much with the coarse grade. Leave a little to touch up with the finer grade paper. I only use the dremel for the denser pieces like the thighs and torso. For the smaller pieces, I used the flex-i-file sanding belts instead. (They are available at most hobby shops~ I love using them because they're flexible and allow for getting into various nooks and crannies that are usually difficult for metal files and large pieces of sandpaper. It also requires very little effort to cut down really rough areas - like recently clipped sprues.)

You might be able to sand down the seams as well using the coarse/medium grade sandpaper. Sand in a diagonal motion over the seam to sand it down. (Think of it like sanding down stairs. If you sand upwards, you'll be doing a much more effective job than sanding downwards.) I like to use the back-side of razor blades to also shave down the seams - ceramic blades Volks sell does the same thing~ It just levels the surface and means a little less work when sanding~ ^^

Step 3:


I use metal craft files to get into those hard to sand crevices like the neck-shoulder section. I clean my files regularly because resin dust can get all caked up and making the file cut less effectively. Use gentle but firm pressure. Filing in a well-lit room also helps to ensure that you don't accidentally cause slices into the resin. I use the metal files sparingly - for some, it might be an optional step.

Step 4:


Using the wet slices of sandpaper, from coarse grade(200-300) to medium grade(600-800) to fine grade (1200-1500), sand down seams until a desired smoothness. Also, be sure to move around the sandpaper as it deteriorates as you work. The coarse grade should produce a white grit while the finer grades produce a grey grit. Wash off and dry your pieces (and hands often) and check your work. The finer grades (1500) polish your pieces. In the end, it should be smooth to the touch and the seam line should be barely visible (if not visible at all~)

Step 5:


This is the neck of the finished torso~ It should be clean, smooth, and even slightly polished to your liking.

The finished body~

I took my time, took many breaks and double checked my finished pieces and compared them to each other. I find that my seams still have a faint line - I'm not sure if it's because *I* am not being meticulous enough, but it's smooth to the touch and looks fine from a hand-held distance.

For the most part, the whole process of just cleaning up the resin body parts took roughly a quarter of my day.

As for my thoughts on the process? Well, it feels a lot like when I cleaned up my Super Dollfie seams... just on a much smaller scale. It was a little tedious working on such small pieces. I highly suggest working on the torso first as it's much denser than the rest of the body parts. Hands and feet were done last as I felt I had a good feel for just how much pressure I needed to apply to sand the sprues down.

Otherwise, I'm quite impressed with the detail and overall look and feel of these pieces. It is obviously made with high-quality Volks resin... It doesn't have the look of the pureskin - possibly closer to the old skin type dolls. Pieces are quite sturdy and easy to clip with craft wire-cutters. I think most people who work with resin garage kits or apt at modifying their resin dolls will have no problem doing this. For super beginners, I don't think it's overly difficult. The major deterrants would be the purchasing of new tools and materials. Second, being the hesitancy to alter the resin. As I mentioned before, it's not *difficult* to do - just tedious/time-consuming?

Next time - Part 3: Joined at the hip... (and drilled to fit)

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thank you for all these updates.. i wouldn't have known otherwise that these kits are probably too much work for me. i can't wait to see how yours turn out, i can live vicariously through you. ^^

oh, and i'm not sure if you were the one who posted about pure neemo azone dolls a while back, but i guess they're out and about now.

These kits are a decent amount of work~ More-so if you're somewhat of a perfectionist like me. ^^;

Anyhoo~ I've updated with some photos of the process and cleaned up some of the entry. ^^ I was exhausted when I wrote it last night. ^_^;

And wow! Those Neemo bodies are quite nice. o_o!

Thank you for posting this ^-^
I haven't worked on resin before so your posts will help a lot when my kit arrives :)

No problem! I added photos and edited some of the entry to better illustrate how I did it~ Hopefully it'll prove somewhat helpful to you! :D

Same here! I sucked it up and ordered a kit xD Well, reserved it~ I wanted a hobby, dammit, so this is perfect. The more time it takes, the better imho.

I'm at such a complete loss re: what to ask my parents to get for my birthday that I'm seriously considering asking for a couple of these, as they're nicer than Dollfie Plus but not OMGEXPENSIVEDED like actual BJDs.

Since they can apparently wear Who's That Girl clothes (and, I assume, other 1/6 doll clothes) I'm figuring they're of a similar size to 1/6 dolls... but I don't love the hair on them, alas. How hard do you think it would be to make a bald headcap for wigs for one? (I have epoxy putty, which I imagine would work nicely.) And about how big IS the head? :x

Also, any idea how hard it would be to open the eyes on one? I am full of questions. XD

Well, if you can get in the second pre-order period, they should be shipping sometime in March?

Anyhoo~ I have seen some people cover the head with a Dollfie Plus wig and they look a lot like mini BJDs~ Most smaller 1/6 clothing will fit (Licca clothes, maybe Blythe?). Not sure how you can make a makeshift skull-cap, but I do think it's very possible~ ^^

As for shaving out the eye holes, if you have the right tools, it's doable~ but because it's relatively small, it doesn't leave a whole lot of room for error~ The resin is soft enough to work with... I might carve out the eyeholes for one of my.. um.. 4 sets.. but if all else fails, I know I could just purchase an option head with the eyeholes cut open~ ^^

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